Before we get started, lets look at what we want to accomplish. If you're new to photography, turning the knob to a setting other than "AUTO" may be one of the most intimidating decision you'll make. It's confusing stuff and it's pretty easy to get discouraged if you don't spend a little time learning exactly why it's important to know what each setting can do. I've never met anyone into photography that grasped every concept right away, so don't worry about learning everything off the bat.
Whether you shoot with film, a D-SLR, an iPhone or a cheap disposable, the basic principles of how an image is captured is the same. If you were to take apart a high end D-SLR, you'll notice that they contain the same basic elements in capturing an image to cameras made decades ago, just a bit more electronics. We'll go into more detail later, but for the most part a camera has four basic components. There's the lens, the aperture, the shutter and the film/sensor.
First, let's look at the fun stuff and figure out what camera to buy. If you've ever been to Best Buy or a local camera shop, you'll notice there are literally hundreds to choose from. I usually get my gear from B&H, Adorama, Cameta Camera or Ebay. The B&H superstore in Manhattan is like Disney World for photographers. It has just about any photo or video equipment you can think of. If you are in the market to buy a new camera, the best advice I can give is to buy the best camera within your abilities with a bit of wiggle room for experimenting, not just the most expensive or cheapest. For digital, most entry level D-SLR's can produce the nearly the same quality images as the full-frame $7,000 cameras. The main differences are the abilities are the ruggedness and features more specific to profession work. An entry level D-SLR covers about 95% of what a top of the line D-SLR can accomplish in terms of capturing images. This goes to say that for just about most of us, improving technique will give us better returns than upgrading to a better camera body. Lets review the most common types out there:
Film Cameras:
These ancient looking devices still have a large following. They're a bit more time consuming to process, but for a lot of old school photographers and new school hipsters, film will never be replaced by digital. They just have a certain feel to them, and in some cases far superior to digital. It all depends on the type of film and more importantly, the size of the film. The following are the most common film type (formats/sizes) still in use. It's good to know this stuff because a lot of the terminology is still in use today when referring to digital.
- APS: This was available in the mid 90's and often referred to as the advanced photo system. It has since been discontinued and finding a film for these types of cameras can be difficult. The format never caught due mostly to the development of more affordable digital cameras to the masses. This format size however, is still used today to describe sensor sizes for digital sensors. It's the rough equivalent in size to "crop sensor" cameras with APS-C or APS-H sensors.
- 35mm: These set the standard for the majority of film cameras. When you think of a film cameras, this format is usually what most people picture in their heads. It is still relatively available and more importantly, affordable as long as you're not shooting hundreds of rolls. Each shot is more precious and the experience can be rewarding. Usually you only have 24 shots per roll to work with. There are still a number of film choices available, but the biggest hurdle will be finding a lab to process your shots once you're done. With most of the public adopting digital, most labs are really just prints labs. Before jumping into film, I suggest you first find a reputable lab before that can process what you shoot. Also note that some labs don't process black and white film, although it's somewhat easier to process negatives with a few basic chemicals. The 35mm format in terms of digital is often referred to as "full frame" since the sensor size is about the same size as a 35mm frame. If you're in the mood to experiment with shooting film, this format is the easiest route. I suggest looking for something that doesn't contain too many electronics. The only electronic in my Nikon FM for example is the meter. Otherwise, everything is manual. No autofocus, no automatic anything...just pure analog camera goodness. An SLR (Single Lens Reflex) camera is the most common choice. It basically lets you see what the lens sees and in turn what the film will capture. If money is no object, a rangefinder camera such as those by Leica is a dream to experiment with. Until you grasp the basic concepts however, it's going to be a lot easier and less expensive to first learn on a D-SLR or even a point and shoot with manual controls.
- Medium Format: This format is quite honestly best for professionals or those that want to take their photography to the next level. There are several sizes available, but each frame is roughly 4 times larger than a 35mm frame. This translates to 4 times more data to work with and can be invaluable if you plan to create large poster sized prints. It is however, a more expensive film to process and you're limited to about 10 exposures per roll with the popular 120 format. The results, if scanned properly, is easily leaps and bounds ahead of any $7,000, high-end, professional, digital "full-frame" camera can muster. The popular models are the Mamiya RB 67, the newer RZ 67 or the Hasselblad 500cm. There are dozens more to choose from, but these are my go to choices. The Hasselblad especially is built like a tank and was designed for years of use. The Mamiya is less expensive while still being built pretty well. Be aware however, that the field of view when deciding the focal length for medium format lenses are much wider than those on a 35mm. Most are also purely mechanical with no electronics. You'll need a stand alone light meter to achieve a proper exposure.
- Large Format: This refers to anything larger than 4"x5" film, the most common large format size. These behemoths are popular with landscape photography. These can still be found, but a lot more cumbersome to shoot and process. The film comes in sheets, which basically means one shot at a time. You've probably seen these types before at some point. If you've new to photography, this would not be best choice to start with to say the least.
Digital Cameras:
Digital changes everything. Fine tuning your skills involves taking shots...lots and lots of shot. There's a saying that your first 10,000 shots are usually your worst. Back in the film days, that translated to thousands of dollars. Being able to shoot without worrying about film processing cost opened the gates for a lot of people that normally couldn't afford to learn the necessary skills. Learning photography requires a lot of trial and error. Often times getting the shot wrong can be just as informative as getting the shot right. There are several types available and are divided based on sensor sizes similar to film cameras. When choosing a camera. Forget megapixels. It's an outdated standard in determining which camera to buy. Every over 6 megapixels will give you more than enough for common size prints or internet viewing. Sensor size is the better determining factor, but even then the lines get somewhat blurred with emerging technologies. Lets review a few common format sizes.
- iPhone/Smartphone Cameras: The sensor sizes are tiny. The sensor on the iPhone 5 for example is about the size of a pea. It's great in making for a more compact phone, but the quality just isn't there for professional quality heavy lifting. With some basic skills and some great apps however, I've seen photographers take some amazing shots with just an iPhone.
- Point & Shoot and Micro 4/3 cameras: These are the more common sensor sizes available to most consumer level cameras. The spectrum can run anywhere from basic cameras to professional grade models. The differences come down to features and build quality. It's compact size allows for smaller camera bodies that you can take anywhere. It's the best compromise if you want something better than an iPhone and don't want to lug around your D-SLR. If you plan on delving deeper into photography and can only purchase one camera, its better to jump straight to an entry level D-SLR instead of a high end point and shoot. Forget the high end types with the built in massive zooms. The results with the zoom lenses on those cameras aren't worth it and they're often close in price to an entry level D-SLR. Newer models offer options for interchangeable lenses, but for the most part, they tend to be either limited in terms of choices or costly with little return compared to D-SLR's.
- Crop Sensor D-SLR Cameras: For D-SLR's there are plenty of other choices besides Canon or Nikon, but these two brands have a great deal of following among professionals. The staggering array of lenses available with Nikon & Canon are among the main reasons very few stray to other brands. You simply can't go wrong with choosing either one. The key however, is to pick a brand from the start that you're comfortable with since you'll likely develop a collection of lenses and gear specific to each. Crop sensors offer a great balance in price and image quality. Until fairly recently, this was the standard format for most working professionals such as wedding photographers. Even with the greater availability of full-frame cameras, the crop sensor format still fulfills the requirements of a vast majority of shooters at a more affordable entry cost. The Nikon "DX" line of cameras for example, starts from around $600 for a D3200 with a kit lens. It's a great camera that contain the same basic electronics as it's more expensive brothers. Compare the specifications to the current top of the line "DX" body, the D7100 and you may be asking what exactly you're gaining for twice the cost. The truth is, very little in terms of image quality....very, very little. If you were to place a side by side comparison of a shot taken with a D3200 and a D7100 with the same lens and the same exposure, I honestly couldn't tell you which was which. So why spend more you may ask. Well, the small upgrades are a godsend to those who spend countless hours trying to get the perfect shot. More control, faster burst rates and a more rugged frame add up to a worthwhile upgrade. Does one really need a 51 point 3D auto focus system?...Not really, 11 points can get it in focus just as well. Even a single center point is enough. If you can afford a D7100 from the start, go for it. It's not any harder to learn with than the entry level D3200. Just don't buy it thinking you'll get amazing professional quality images by leaving it in "auto." Doing so will give you results comparable to point and shoots in "auto." Think of it as the computer giving the "safe" results instead of giving you what you imagined the shot to be.
- Full Frame D-SLR Cameras: This format is the new norm for professionals. With recent advancements in camera sensor manufacturing, it has gotten to the point where pro-sumers are within reach of full frame cameras. The sensor on a full frame camera is roughly the same size as a standard 35mm film frame. With a larger sensor, there are noticeable differences in image quality if you know what to look for. They also tend to perform better at higher ISO levels and offer a higher dynamic range. If you don't know what any of that means, buying a full frame camera is a waste of money. It would be like buying a Porsche after just passing your written exam. It's fine if you can afford it, but those in the know will be envious, jealous or possibly disappointed that such a marvelous piece of gear isn't being used to it's full potential. Put simply, but one if you want, but don't for a second think it makes you a photographer.
- Digital Medium Format: The quality available with recent advancements have propelled digital medium format into a true rival to film medium format. It still doesn't have that unmeasurable quality only film can produce, but the cleanliness and resolution is comparable or better. The limiting factor in its adoption is cost. If you thought a full frame was out of your budget, the cost of a medium format digital is probably out of your budget for the next 10 years. Older second hand models can be had for around $10,000 with new ones costing upwards of $30,000. This is why medium format film is still around. You can achieve the same quality a fraction of the cost.
To summarize, an entry model D-SLR or better is the logical choice if you plan to take your photography to the next level. Most are build to provide years of use, so even buying a used older model over a comparably priced point and shoot is well worth it. Up next, we'll look at which cameras I would choose.
